Flying out of Dubai, I had a clear view of the Palm, where Julianna lives. Below: Nizwa, whose roots extend back at least to the 6th-7th centuries, but archaeological discoveries suggest earlier settlements. The city sits at the base of the Hajar Mountains in an oasis, where underground water channels, the falaj, nourish the date plantations. (We saw the falaj at the oasis in Al Ain.) This place feels off the tourist radar, and you notice how more rural Omanis live. We visited the souk, sampled numerous varieties of dates, shopped for silver offerings, bought unique souvenirs, and toured the ancient city, which showcases the restoration of its historic buildings. This is a place to return to—an ideal spot to park your life and explore with your camera from dawn to dusk for a week or more.