History
Before traveling to Thailand this time, I decided to spend some time getting to know the history of our destination. First, to give myself a broad overview of Thailand, and then focus on the specific places we visited.
I had impressions from our prior visits, moments that lived on in my memory. One very distinct one was my guide’s grief over the death of her king. That was from either 2017 or 2018. Now, reading the history, that grief had meaning.
Thailand became a constitutional monarchy in 1932, often called the Siamese Revolution. It was a bloodless revolution that ended the absolute monarchy. The king is the head of state, not the head of government, as in the case of King Charles. The revolution kept the ancient monarchy but transformed the governance.
The king who had just died in 2016, before my visit, was King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX). He had ruled from 1946 to 2016, 70 years. He was born in the United States and educated in Switzerland. His death led to a year of national mourning, which was why, when we visited in 2017, there were still so many photos of the King and still just raw grief. It will be interesting to visit now, 7 years later, to see whether his portrait still hangs everywhere.
Thailand changed its name officially from Siam in 1949. Thai means “free”; the change emphasized national identity and unity, reflecting a shift from the absolute monarchy before 1932 to the constitutional monarchy that followed.
Our first stop is Chiang Mai, known for its unique history. Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, established in the late 13th century. The region had its own rulers, language, culture, and artistic style. In the 16th century, Burma conquered Lanna and ruled it for over 200 years. Burma did not fully integrate Lanna, but it governed it. Then, in the late 18th century, Siam expelled the Burmese, and Lanna became a vassal state of Siam, meaning it retained its own rulers, laws, customs, and culture while remaining loyal to Siam.
Religion
Thailand is predominantly Buddhist, with 90 to 95 percent of the population practicing the religion. Buddhism shapes daily routines, festivals, calendars, social values, and the countless temples across the country. This was noticeable in Bhutan when we visited. The monks in Bhutan wear a deep red, while in Thailand, they wear saffron. There were many roadside shrines, and the temples served as community gathering spaces. In addition to Buddhism, Thailand has Muslins, Christians, Chinese religious traditions, and Animist beliefs. It will be interesting to see what evidence of these other religions we see.
Crafts
So the last time I was in Thailand, I saw silk dying and watched it being spun from cocoons, so I go now knowing that Thai silk would be a joy to see. What makes it so special is that it isn’t perfect but slightly irregular and luminous. But there are Also, Hill tribe textiles with indigo dyes and geometric patterns. It would be fun to see these. Cotton weaving is also prevalent, especially in the north where we are visiting. As a textile collector, I can feel my suitcase getting heavier as I write this.
The north is also home to Thai silver, and Chiang Mai is a center. It is heavy, matter, deeply chased with floral and Buddhist motifs, often made for ceremonial bowls, jewelry, and other vessels. Will there be silver beads???
Also, Celadon ceramics, a soft pale green, and Benjarong porcelain, highly decorative, multi-colored, very ornate, precise, and formal.
And wood carvings, teak doors, window panels, temple details. In Chiang Mai, the wood carving feels architectural rather than decorative.
It will be fun to keep my eyes open for all of these things.
Chiang Mai
Our first stop is Chiang Mai, known for its unique history. Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, established in the late 13th century. The region had its own rulers, language, culture, and artistic style. In the 16th century, Burma conquered Lanna and ruled it for over 200 years. Burma did not fully integrate Lanna, but it governed it. Then, in the late 18th century, Siam expelled the Burmese, and Lanna became a vassal state of Siam, meaning it retained its own rulers, laws, customs, and culture while remaining loyal to Siam.
Asia desk, see link above, coordinated this trip.